After a very bad winter, November - March, the 2013 season has started in April.
Reef Macintosh and Danny Fuller came for the first big swell and got a couple of barrels. It was tough finding the right ones.
San Diego's Max Diaz found out the hard way having the worst wipeout of his life on a solid 10fter. Max was way under gunned but also scored a couple of good ones.
Puerto local Will Dillon took off on a couple of the big ones on his 9.0 and was also under gunned.
Coco Nogales caught a couple of good ones and pulled into one solid 10fter and got swallowed up as the wave spat so hard and blew him off his board. Very, veryheavy.
The water is very cold right now (at least for here), with mid to high 60s and we have a marine layer with the hot air. Light fog, yes fog in the tropics. Very rare for here. Kinda erie with the sound of the waves and the mist. The swell has changed directions more from the west and thats causing some erosion taking a lot of sand off the beach.
In playa marinero bungalows Liza's is being destroyed by the erosion. We'll have to see what this does to the sand bars. The 20th, 21st the swell dropped to 5-8ft at the beachbreak. The point already has so much sand and is slabbing very very good waves. There is so much fun to be had.
April 22nd, swell picked up again on the beachbreak 8-10ft and picking up, very strong currents, but lot's of ripples on the faces. Not to many surfers here, none of the usual big wave guys. I think this mid April swell was bigger then any swells last year and more swell on the way. Next report coming soon.